Fade types and how to ask for one
A fade is defined by the height at which the transition begins: low just above the ear, mid at temple height and high near the parietal bone, and it is requested by naming that height together with the starting guard number.
gelisted editorial team · Updated 15 August 2026
The short version
- Guard numbers are measured in eighths of an inch.
- A number 1 leaves about 3 millimetres and a number 4 about 13.
- A marked fade loses definition in 2 or 3 weeks.
- A skin fade needs refreshing every 10 to 14 days.
Almost every cut that goes wrong goes wrong in the conversation before it, not in the chair. Two pieces of information prevent it: where it starts and with which number.
The guard numbers
They are measured in eighths of an inch, so each number adds about 3 millimetres. A zero leaves the hair almost at skin level, a number 1 about 3 millimetres, a number 2 about 6, a number 3 about 10 and a number 4 about 13. With no guard, the clipper leaves 0,5 to 1,5 millimetres depending on the model. That vocabulary is the minimum, and with it the conversation stops depending on interpretation.
| Type | Where it starts | Refresh |
|---|---|---|
| Low fade | just above the ear | every 3 to 4 weeks |
| Mid fade | at temple height | every 3 weeks |
| High fade | near the parietal bone | every 2 to 3 weeks |
| Skin fade | from zero at the base | every 10 to 14 days |
| Guard 1 | about 3 mm | |
| Guard 2 | about 6 mm | |
| Guard 3 | about 10 mm | |
| Guard 4 | about 13 mm |
How to describe it
Three sentences settle the cut. First, where the transition starts, pointing to your own head. Second, which number it begins with at the bottom and which number it rises to. Third, what happens on top, how much comes off and whether you want texture or a defined shape. Adding whether the neckline should be square, rounded or blended closes the conversation.
What suits which head
A high fade lengthens the face visually and works on round faces. A low fade softens and suits longer faces better. On curly hair the transition needs more distance to avoid a step, so starting one number higher than on straight hair usually helps. And with a receding hairline, leaving more length on top and at the front helps more than taking the sides down further.
A skin fade looks immaculate for 5 or 6 days and blurred from about the tenth, so ask for it with the date it needs to look best in mind.
The most common mistake
Asking for a cut from a photograph without accounting for hair type. The same fade on fine straight hair, on thick hair and on curly hair gives three different results, because fall and volume change completely. Asking the barber how that particular cut will sit on that particular hair is the 2 minute conversation that separates a good visit from three weeks of regret.
Frequently asked
+What does the guard number mean?
Length in eighths of an inch: a number 1 leaves about 3 millimetres and a number 4 about 13.
+What is the difference between a low and a high fade?
The height where the transition starts: above the ear for low and near the parietal bone for high.
+How often does it need refreshing?
Every 3 or 4 weeks for a low fade, 2 or 3 for a high one and 10 to 14 days for a skin fade.
+How do I explain it properly?
By pointing to where it starts, naming the start and finish numbers and describing the top.
+Is taking a photograph useful?
Only if the hair type is similar, since the same cut falls differently on straight, thick and curly hair.
Sources
- 1Instituto Nacional de Estadística, INE (August 2026)
- 2Govern de les Illes Balears, Govern de les Illes Balears (August 2026)